How difficult a repair job is replacing a clothes washer lid switch?

We have a Kenmore Washer. The lid switch is not funtioning properly..





My husband is not the %26quot;Maytag repair man%26quot;, but he is logical, practical and can follow directions.





How tough of a job is replacing the lid switch?





For those of you who are home fix-it folks, and know what you%26#039;re talking about - would an intelligent guy be able to muddle thru a job like this, or would you advise hiring the pro?|||These are very easy to do unplug the machine and use a putty knife to remove the top of the washer by sticking it between the bottom and top panel and prying up on the top lid .Do this in the front of the machine only


Stick the putty knife in the gap in from each side approx.3%26quot; to 4%26quot; you will feel an area where it does not go thru this is where you pry up.The lid should pop off of the two latch like pieces and lift up then just pull it forward and up remember hold onto the lid it will open backwards on you.


Then from there you will be able to see the switch depending on what year and model it is it will either have a magnetic if the magnetic type (to remove this type just squeeze the ends of the switch and push it through the hole in the lid)switch or a micro switch all you have to do is remove the old one and take it to your local appliance parts store and they will fix you up with the new one and just reassemble the machine and your golden.In some cases I have found that the micro switch type will just get pushed aside some how if this is the case just realign it and you will be good to go.|||Having owened a couple of Kenmore automatic washing machines the last one being a 1980-something model, I think I know and can picture what you%26#039;re talking about. If I remember correctly, the top lid switch is a safety cutoff device that will stop the spinning of the basket during the rinse and spin dry cycles. It may not be the fault of the switch if this feature is causing the tub not to spin when it should, but it probably is. Also, if I remember correctly the whole top of the machine can be lifted up from the front (being careful not to wedge the operating panel on the back against anything and damage it) exposing the underside where the switch is mounted. It should have a couple of small screws attaching it to the underside of the top and a couple of wires that should be able to be unplugged fairly easily (don%26#039;t break anything)%26lt;G%26gt; for a new switch purchases from your nearest Sears parts department to be installed. BUT, WAIT !! Before your go to even that length, if your hubby has or can get hold of a volt/amp/cont meter, have him check when he locates the switch if there is continuity across the terminals of the switch in the position it is in when the top lid is closed (but with no electrical activity in the controls of the machine--control dial on %26#039;Off%26#039;). If there is continuity, there is nothing wrong with the switch. There may be an open connection elsewhere in the circuit to the clutch that closes to spin the tub. You have to pull the machine away from the wall far enough the look in the bottom %26quot;machinery compartment%26quot; to find the connections to that clutch. Lotsa luck to you %26#039;guys%26#039;|||Yes, he can do it. Should take less than 1 hour. Don%26#039;t forget to unplug it.|||Dadcat got it right for a belt-drive machine. If it%26#039;s a direct drive, remove the 2 screws at each corner of the control panel, then flip the control panel back. That will expose the holding clamps that are removed with a flat-tip screwdriver. The whole cabinet comes off. The wire to the door switch will have a disconnect spot to make it easy. After getting the cabinet off, the rest will be easy.|||About as hard as it is in changing the brake lite on your car





Once he starts to take the top off he will look at it and say is that all there is to it???





Read the first guy to answer how to I won%26#039;t go through all the do this do thats he already has|||It would take less than two hours if he has semi-decent instructions for it. If you%26#039;ve got instructions on how, and can let your laundry wait till saturday, then he could do it.|||Way to go Kurtis G. You got it right. There are two different body styles depending on whether its a belt drive or a direct drive. If the machine is older than 15 years, its probably a belt drive. If its a direct drive, you can pop the consolee up like Kurtis said and take a continuity test of the switch through the connector. Just unplug the connector from the consol and put your tester in the white and black wired terminals. If you push down on the switch pad and it doesn%26#039;t register, then its the switch. You could also put a jumper on the connector that plugs into the switch and then plug in the machine and put it on spin. If it goes, again the switch is probably the problem|||This is a easy fix. 1st unplug the machine Then put a flat screwdriver covered with a rag into the crack around the top of the washer, at each front corner and twist The top will pop off ( you may have to do this at each front corner. Once it is loose lift it up ( it is hinged on the back) you will see the switch you need to change. It will be held on with a couple of screws or simply pushed into a bracket. Pull off the two wires and replace it with a new one. This is really easy I once saw a neurosurgeon do it all by himself.